Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.